Pieces of Bonsai - October 2005

Now that Autumn is here, we can begin real work on the trees. The white pines have already had the needles cut off, and we can begin on the black pines. In this case either pluck the needles off or cut them off like the white pines. Then plucking black pine needles they should be pulled off in an upward mobement that is in the direction the branch is growing. The cork bark pine is done just the opposite. The cork bark pines should be done first because the buds develop earlier , and late plucking will remove the buds as well as the needles. If ever in doubt, cut them off.

Often when removing the needles you can see the new bud already. Then you must cut the needles. Once in a while you will find a three needle bunch on the black pine, you are guaranteed a bud there. The three needle cluster is a sign of very strong growth at that point. Again, remove less from the branches that are lower and weaker than from the top of the tree. Use the same idea you use when de-candling.

Black pine or cork bark pines are top growers, so you can remove all but 2 or 3 needle bundles at the top. This is always assuming that the pine is bery healthy and has been fed a couple of weeks vefore. If the pine is not healthy, be careful with the amount of needles you remove, and in some cases none at all, if the tree is really weak or sick. Ask advice if in doubt. Shaping and wiring can be done now. Look carefully to see if any bulges (knuckles) are forming where you have two or more branches at one point. If not, leave them alonde to help thicken the trunk. If in doubt cut a branch off or reduce it quite a bit to slow the trunk bulge formation.

Remember when you have two or more branches at one point, the branches will not thicken as fast as if there were just one. We do not want the thick branch to visually reduce the trunk. Also, reducing the branch will help keep foliage closer to the trunk.

Fruiting and flowering trees can be repotted now. Remember some trees bloom on old wood and others on new. Crab apples and other fruiting trees should be repotted and given a bit of lime in the soil - about a teaspoon for a six inch pot, more for a larger pot. Make sure you spread those roots out and remove the larger ones with a nice clean cut. Root cuts that are not clean or smooth do not heal over well and may become infected and rot. So don’t pull the roots off no matter how small. Cut them. In general flowers and therefore fruit tend to form on short branches. Do not cut the short branches in the fall when reshaping the tree.

Remember also that the shape is much more important than the flowers. For the first few years, get the tree in shape and then let it bloom.

Maples will begin to take on the fall color sometime now or in November depending on where you are. The tree is dormant now eventhough the pretty leaves are still there. So do your cutting of heavy branches now. If you wait until the leaves are gone, you may wait too long. The sap begins to stir in the early part of December, and then it is too late for the heavy pruning, eventhough the buds are not swelling.

All old wiring should be checked or removed before the branch falls offf from strangulation. We have just come through a growth period in Septemberand lignification has taken place. Now we can begin to add wire to refine the branches. If the main shaping done earlier does not hold, such as in cedars and hard bends in pines and junipers, rewire now before the branch returns to its original position. Put the wire on in the opposite direction or if necessary in the same direction, but be careful not to place the new wire in the same place as the wire just removed.

Junipers can be worked on now and next month for heavy pruning. All cuts no matter on what kind of tree must be clean, that is no jagged edges. On large cuts use a carving tool to remove just a fraction of heart wood below the cambium layer for a nice smooth heal over. Then seal the wound with cut paste.

When working on your trees, as you switch from one tree to another, dip your cutter in a disinfectant to kill any virus or bacteria that can be spread to the next tree. A small bottle of rubbing alcohol or Hexol will solve the problem, and the tool can be wiped off, then go on to the next tree. I like Hexol because it leaves a very light coating of oil on the tool and keeps it operating smoothly and prevents rusting. Good bonsai tools are expensive to say yhe least, so take care of them.

One more thing has occured to me. If you have a bad mealy bug infestation on the tops of your pines, better check the roots too because bugs get in there also and are really difficult to get rid of. I recommend deep soaking in a malathion or diazinon solution. This will have to be done weekly three or four times.

it is time to apply 0-10-10 fertilizer to everything but evergreens. If you use liquid, apply it at least every two weeks. If you use the granules, apply once a monthe to six weeks. Two granule applications should see you through the winter.

Go to the fall shows and learn what other people do and how they solve their problems. Take along a note pad and sketch branch shapes that please or arrangements of branches on a one sided tree. Look for an unexpected branch solution on bunjin. Make a note of it so you can use it for your design. Ehile looking to admire, learn too. If you ask whose tree it is, see if that person is around the room and talk to him or her. You might get an extra bit of knowledge and lso make the person feel good.

By John Boyce. October 2001

Tags: fall, Fertilizer, Fruiting Trees, Junipers, Maples, october, Pines, Tree Care